Boss Hog IX Siren's Song Review
Background
Almost a year ago exactly, curiosity killed my wallet (but blessed my palate) and I was finally able to review two entries of WhistlePig’s famed Boss Hog series, VII and VIII. One of the goals of that review was to see how the whiskey stacked up against WhistlePig’s five promises for its Boss Hog series:
Single barrel
Bottled at proof
Distinctly unique from anything they’ve done before
“Powerfully complex”
“It will be stupendous”
As noted in my last review, three of those are pretty tangible. This is a single barrel (31), bottled at proof (103.4), and checks notes WhistlePig hasn't put out a Greek Fig Nectar & Tentura finished rye before (more on those finishes in a second). The last two, however, are totally subjective so let’s dig into them!
Simply looking at the process for Boss Hog IX, it’s hard to say they didn't at least swing for the fences. Let’s start with something of an elephant in the room- the fact that this is dubbed a “well aged rye.” Naturally you might think “how well aged?” Great question, hypothetical reader! For the first time in the series, WhistlePig won't tell you. The writing was on the wall here with Boss Hog VIII, where they dropped the age from the bottle but disclosed it on a hidden page you could only get to once you registered your bottle. They take that “well aged rye” and slumber (their word not mine, but god I love how decadent their copywriters are) it in casks that previously held Greek Fig Nectar and tentura they made themselves. If it’s your first time seeing the word "tentura”, don’t worry, it’s mine too so I’ve Googled it for us: “a traditional liqueur from Patras, Greece. It's made by infusing brandy or rum with herbs and spices, such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and citrus fruit.” Ok that’s the process, let’s now judge the end result…
WhistlePig Boss Hog IX - Siren’s Song (NAS, 103.4 Proof)
Nose: Well I sure as hell hadn't heard of tentura before but based on that description I imagine it smells like this. Big pops of citrus and spices, one minute you get a big whiff of clove and the next a rush of fresh oranges. It’s juicy and spicy all in one go, and pretty damn inviting.
Palate: It’s a glorious fruit bouquet up front, oranges and peaches, peaches and oranges. Some sips I get one more than the other but those two first and foremost. Texture wise it’s pretty syrupy, and that texture along with the rich fruit pair nicely with the wave of spices that hit towards the mid palate. More clove, and then some cinnamon.
Finish: Alright this is where I’m struggling a bit, because it’s got a lingering bit of natural sweetness, dried apricot in particular, but there’s also a mild “I just ate a small spoonful of cinnamon” sensation.
Great to Excellent (7.5/10)
Overall: Man, this is tough. Complex, check. Stupendous… I’m not so sure. It’s certainly unique, top tier unique, and I normally err on the side of being quite generous to unique. It is sensational if I’m being hyper literal- it bombards the senses. The problem I have is that I feel like I’m drinking more of a digestif than a whiskey. Good luck finding flavors you can attribute to the base rye.
I again am going to repeat myself a bit from my last foray into the Boss Hog series, because inevitably the question of “worth” is inseparable from the conversation around these releases. And hey look, the MSRP is up $100 from Boss Hog VIII, from $500 to $600! It’s really tough to square that price with a whiskey that I think is a hyper novel experiment, but that I can probably only have one glass of at a time. Yes I’m bummed the age statement is gone, and yes I’m laughing my ass off that there’s inevitably some sucker who spent ~$5400 gathering all nine collectible pewter toppers. All in all, I can’t tell you how to spend your money… but seriously, if you spent $5400 on nine of these, call me, I may have a bridge to sell you.
