Frank August Appraisal (Round 3)! Jack Rose Tasting Review
Background
I'll start by saying that, to date, I have really enjoyed everything I’ve tasted from Frank August. BUT… in the current market I've been trying so hard to not pay the premiums associated with NDP whiskey. There are too many heritage brands releasing double-digit age statement, flagship offerings to want to spend the premium per bottle price on this middle market. And look, none of those linked options are positioned as cheap off the shelf bottles, but I personally tend to be in a camp where I’d rather spend around $200 on a 15 or 17 year Jacob’s Well bottle than ~$130 on 8 year sourced MGP (and no shots at Seelbach’s, I love what they do).
All that said, this tasting was an opportunity to hear about the brand directly from founder Johnathan Crocker. And I was floored by how considered Jonathan was throughout. Every decision he makes with the brand seems to be incredibly thorough. He strikes me as someone who wakes up at the ass crack of dawn every day with a meticulous schedule. Also, he's from upstate NY and so am I... so I'm biased. Here are some key takeaways from the tasting, before we get into the reviews:
We have to start with the sourcing, which Frank August is notoriously tight lipped about. Jonathan was pretty blunt that he would love to share more, but is under strict NDA not to. Yes, this is the case for many an NDP but it did seem to legitimately frustrate him that it’s not something he can get into. What he did share is that all of their barrels use a 110 barrel entry proof.
Speaking of sourcing, he did share that their Small Batch meets all the requirements of a Bottled in Bond product, but they can't label it as BiB because doing so would mean they must disclose the distilling partner.
One last point on sourcing, all of their barrels come from the same distilling partner and will do so for the foreseeable future. BUT, they are going to start working with a new partner, Potter Jane, once their stocks come up to age.
As perspective I personally loved: Jonathan said the goal of the small batch was to be a “handshake with the brand.” He did not want to start with some 14/15 year, crazy expensive single barrels to build hype and then bait and switch everyone over to some younger stocks.
Frank August Small Batch Bourbon (NAS, 100 Proof)
Nose: Pixie sticks, cinnamon sugar... there's a gentle sweetness and also a slightly spicy counterbalance. A little generic-y "bourbon", which is to say a vague caramel/vanilla mix… not a bad thing, just not a wildly provocative start.
Palate: Toasted vanilla, hints of natural cherry and dark chocolate. It has a really gentle, almost velvet texture and a nice balance but nothing crazy
Finish: More toasted vanilla... a little smores-y honestly, in a good way! Toasted graham cracker.
Good (5/10)
Overall: It’s good! Exceptional, not to my mind, no. But a rock solid bourbon. I wish I had a ton of additional perspective to add but it’s just a down the middle, drinkable bourbon.
Frank August Single Barrel 005 (5 Years, 123.3 Proof)
Nose: Fruity, but in a bit of a generic fruit soda type way. Generic here is not used as a pejorative here, just lacking specificity as to the exact fruit.
Palate: Oh wow big tasty orange candies. Dark chocolate covered maybe, like an orange creme chocolate from a box that you’re skeptical of based on the name, but on consumption it wins you over. There’s a crash of cloves here as well providing a nice spicy balance.
Finish: Big toasted oak, spiced and dried cocktail oranges. There’s crushed red pepper, orange marmalade, and hints of caramel. It’s a BOLD finish, and spicy in a nice memorable way.
Great (7/10)
Overall: Quick disclaimer for anyone enterprising enough to hyper zoom in on my picture, this was mislabelled on the tasting mat! There’s something for everyone here in my opinion. It has an excellent balance of spice notes, sweetness, and a fun citrus fruit note that seems to carry through the sip. What’s fun is that I had tried this before, and orange marmalade was my primary note.
Frank August Case Study 01: Mizunara Oak (NAS, 114.4 Proof)
Overall: Previously reviewed here, and in tasting it again I was arguably a smidge low on this. The Mizunara is so harmonious with the base spirit, providing a oily texture and some delicate influence but none of the overwhelming, sandalwood notes you typically get. This is a banging whiskey.
Frank August Case Study 02: 1948 XO PX Brandy Cask (NAS, 101 Proof)
Overall: Also previously reviewed this whiskey here. I’ll be honest this time it read to me as slightly more medicinal cherry, particularly on the finish. Still a fairly nice whiskey, but did not really hold a candle to the Mizunara in my opinion.
Frank August Case Study 03: Winter Cover Rye (NAS, 106.25 Proof)
Nose: Big crisp apple tart and everything that goes with it. Crisp baked crust, heaps of cinnamon sugar… what a fall nose. Maybe it’s because we are drinking this while sitting outside on a beautiful fall Sunday, but damn that pulls you in.
Palate: A nice carryover from the nose. Though now it’s a bit more cider-y, and punchier with the rye spices arriving, particularly some star anise. I get a bit of powdered sugar, some hints of caramel and a light touch of mint that leads us too…
Finish: A crescendo of rye driven mint notes... specifically I get some wintergreen. Alongside the mint is dark chocolate and a fair amount of toasted oak
Great (7/10)
Overall: Apparently, this was recently named “World’s Best Rye”. It’s more like world’s pretty damn good rye for me, which is fine! Any way you slice it, this is an excellent sipping rye and ideal for a fall day like we had for this tasting. If I had to levy a minor gripe, it’s that I like my ryes’ a bit punchier than found here.
Frank August Case Study 04: 4X Oaked (NAS, 95 Proof)
Nose: Vaguely fruity, and nicely floral. Particularly I’m getting honeysuckle, lavender, and a bit of fresh cut orchard fruit. It’s pretty delicate and alluring, but I’m also having a bit of a tough time pulling out more specifics.
Palate: Motts apple sauce, but with an added helping of cinnamon. There’s also a fun honey and floral note coming through, reminding me of good farmer’s market wildflower honey. What’s surprising given the amount of oak used in the process is that it is not a massive oak bomb.
Finish: Shameless stealing this note from the great Tracie Franklin, but I think it’s spot on: toasted green tea. A bit of the oak influence comes through here but nothing crazy. It stays rather delicate, herbal, a bit floral, and hints of that honey sweetness.
Very Good (6/10)
Overall: Alright, I’m nearly positive I’m messing up the story on this one because it’s pretty complicated by bear with me. This is technically, legally, cask strength. Because it is double oak bourbon, blended with double oak rye, and apparently both were proofed down in the barrel. I’m definitely missing some key details here, like when the proofing down occurred.I believe on the transfer from the first barrel to the second barrel, but am likely wrong. All of that blending doesn’t totally knock my socks off though, it’s a nice whiskey but for me the Mizunara remains the gold standard of these Case Studies.
