SMWS Reviews - Kirkwall Calling (4.357, 4.358, 4.359)
Background
I’m a bit of a sucker for Highland Park, I’ll be honest. I fully understand that, much like their Edrington brethren, Macallan, they are churning out high concept marketing exercises at a dizzying and off putting pace. But I really enjoy the delicate peat and coastal influence that underpin their distillate.
One of my favorite all time SMWS releases was also a Highland Park offering from last year’s March Outturn, “A Proper Summer Dram” (4.304). A bottle I purchased and has just continued to grow on me as I drink it and share it copiously with friends… which is a bit of a forced segue into this Kirkwall Calling Distillery Dive! Whiskey is, of course, best shared and enjoyed, and I was fortunate enough to have a few friends help facilitate my Highland Park addiction by agreeing to bottle split this collection.
4.357 “Sphagnum and Heather” (Highland Park) (12 Years, 62.2%)
Nose: Red vines, orange zest, and a very delicate, basically effervescent peat note. You know it’s there but it’s tough to put a finger on specifically how it presents itself.
Palate: Fish sauce and a gentle coastal seaweed laced with a bright, almost yuzu citrus. It’s a little oily in texture and has a fun brightness.
Finish: Sea salt and honey… this is definitely when the coastal influence most presents itself. I’m getting this occasional omakase table sea urchin-esque note. There’s also a bit of black pepper and tangy citrus.
Great (7/10)
Overall: A delicious and adventurous pour… that I almost weirdly wish was a little more consistent? I love the palate so much that the coastal influence on the finish is both fun and a little jarring. Still, this is a lot of fun to sit with and puzzle out.
4.358 “A Viking’s Journey” (Highland Park) (12 Years, 63.2%)
Nose: Petrichor, and a sweet mineral driven seltzer. Almost like a LaCroix. It’s again pretty bright, lightly coastal, and quite approachable.
Palate: Oh yeah, that’s oily. Fish oil, smoked whitefish, and there’s a nice creaminess too. I would pair this with a cream cheese and lox bagel, that’s what it’s a little reminiscent of. I am overwhelmed by a desire to eat that right this minute. Dashes of lemon zest.
Finish: That gentle creaminess which I think is my response to the way this coats my palate and throat. Capers, grilled lemon, toasted oak.
Great to Excellent (7.5/10)
Overall: The bottle may be named A Viking’s Journey but this makes me feel vaguely pirate-y. It’s got a fantastic coastal pop, and I stand by my palate notes. Is breakfast whiskey a thing? At least brunch whiskey, this is a brunch picnic in a bottle. Exciting, diverse flavors with a lightness and approachability that makes me want to sing a sea shanty.
4.359 “At the Harbour Restaurant” (Highland Park) (12 Years, 63.4%)
Nose: Big salted caramel on the nose. Brown butter. It is sweeter smelling on the nose by a significant margin.
Palate: Hand-rolled sushi, with an emphasis on the dried seaweed. Slightly burnt, salty butter coating flaky briney fish. Charred lemon and creme brulee.
Finish: A medicinal lemon, like a cough drop. A bit of soot and lingering salinity.
Very Good to Great (6.5/10)
Overall: It’s plenty tasty, and there’s a heaviness to this that matches the name. You would want to drink this with a nice, seafood dinner. It’s definitely a late night dram, but it also tracks closer to what I’d consider a more run of the mill Highland Park profile than the others (which are a bit brighter and more adventurous).
